Zermatt
First week of November in Zermatt
Nestled at the foot of the iconic Matterhorn, Zermatt is a picturesque Swiss village that blends old-world charm with alpine luxury. Known worldwide as a premier ski and mountaineering destination, Zermatt boasts an incredible array of activities both on and off the slopes. With over 360 kilometers of ski pistes, including access to the Theodul Glacier, visitors can enjoy skiing year-round — a rare feature among European resorts. For freeride enthusiasts, 36 kilometers of off-piste runs offer thrilling challenges in the pristine backcountry.
Zermatt itself is car-free, enhancing its tranquil atmosphere and allowing visitors to wander freely through the narrow cobblestone streets lined with traditional chalets, gourmet restaurants, and upscale boutiques. The village is steeped in mountaineering history and serves as a base for summiting not only the Matterhorn but also other peaks in the Pennine Alps. Summer in Zermatt is just as beautiful with scenic hiking trails, mountain biking routes, and glacier skiing.
Zermatt’s gastronomy is also notable, featuring everything from cozy Swiss taverns serving fondue to Michelin-starred restaurants offering contemporary twists on alpine cuisine. With its blend of natural beauty, high-end amenities, and adventurous spirit, Zermatt is a destination that offers something for everyone, whether you're seeking relaxation, adrenaline, or simply the chance to be surrounded by some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the Alps.
Summer hike from Gornergrat to Riffelberg
My husband and I took our first summer hike together in Zermatt, and we fell in love with the place immediately. Two years later, we returned to get married here. Since then, we've always stayed at Coeurs des Alpes — a place that truly feels like home. This family-run hotel, led by Leni and Thomas, has a level of hospitality unlike anywhere else we’ve experienced in Switzerland. While Zermatt certainly has its share of stylish and charming boutique hotels, we always recommend Coeurs des Alpes.
There is a place, we’d like to stay once – Wellnesshotel Zurbriggen. So, if you’ve been there let us know about it!
Picture © Coeur des Alpes / Our favorite room is the Standard Suite with a view on the Matterhorn.
Where to eat
If you happen to be at Coeurs des Alpes and they do a Raclette evening, don’t miss it! The best Raclette cheese I’ve ever had!
Otherwise, we can recommend the following places:
Schäferstube
Restaurant Schäferstube in Zermatt is a cozy, traditional Swiss restaurant known for its authentic alpine atmosphere and local specialties. Located in the heart of Zermatt, it specializes in lamb dishes sourced from its own family farm, alongside classic Swiss favorites like fondue and raclette. With its rustic charm and dedication to high-quality, locally-sourced ingredients, Schäferstube offers a genuine taste of the Valais region in a warm, welcoming setting. I actually don’t eat lamb but I usually take the Walliser Käseschnitte – it’s heavy but so good!
Chez Vrony
Chez Vrony in Zermatt is an iconic mountain restaurant offering an unforgettable alpine dining experience with spectacular views of the Matterhorn. Situated high above the village in the hamlet of Findeln, Chez Vrony combines rustic charm with modern elegance, serving organic, locally-sourced dishes that range from traditional Swiss fare to creative, contemporary options. Known for its cozy yet chic atmosphere, warm hospitality, and sun-drenched terrace, Chez Vrony is a must-visit spot for both skiers and hikers looking to enjoy the flavors of the region in one of Zermatt’s most breathtaking settings. We celebrated our wedding at Chez Vrony and go there every year. However, it is one of those hip places in Zermatt. So, you better make reservation. By the way, Vrony is Leni’s sister (Coeurs des Alpes).
Findlerhof
Findlerhof in Zermatt is a charming, family-run mountain restaurant renowned for its authentic Swiss cuisine and stunning views of the Matterhorn. Located in the idyllic hamlet of Findeln, this cozy spot offers a warm, rustic atmosphere where guests can enjoy traditional dishes like rösti, fondue, and homemade desserts, all made from fresh, local ingredients. Known for its relaxed, friendly service and breathtaking terrace views, Findlerhof is a hidden gem that provides an intimate taste of Zermatt’s alpine hospitality. We’ve actually never ate there but friends have and they all say that it’s delicious!
saycheese! by Grand Hotel Zermatterhof
Saycheese! in Zermatt is a cozy cheese fondue restaurant that brings a delightful twist to the classic Swiss dining experience. Specializing in a variety of delicious fondue options, from traditional cheese to creative variations, Saycheese! offers a fun, interactive atmosphere where guests can enjoy melt-in-your-mouth fondue paired with local wines and cured meats. With its inviting décor, friendly service, and focus on quality, Saycheese! is a must-visit for anyone looking to indulge in one of Switzerland’s most beloved dishes in a charming and lively setting.
These hot apple pies are my favorite at Chez Vrony
Explore
With its stunning landscapes, fresh mountain air, and well-maintained trails, Zermatt is a hiker’s paradise year-round. Hiking in Zermatt offers some of the most breathtaking and diverse alpine trails in Switzerland. Surrounded by towering peaks, including the iconic Matterhorn, Zermatt’s network of hiking routes caters to all levels of experience, from leisurely walks through lush meadows to challenging summit treks. Whether you’re exploring the high-altitude trails with panoramic views, wandering through picturesque villages, or enjoying the serenity of alpine lakes, Zermatt’s hiking paths provide unparalleled opportunities to connect with nature. Here are some hikes we can definitely recommend:
We did it the other way round (from Furi to Riffelalp) and first went to the Dossen glacier garden and the Furi Suspension Bridge Trail. It was a longer hike and you can also split it into two or three hikes.
Edelweissweg Trail
We did only a short part of this hike (Zermatt - Berggasthaus Trift - Furi - Zermatt). But once our son is older or we get a chance to go to Zermatt without him, we want to try the long trail.
This is definitely not a complete summary of all our times in Zermatt. I will for sure update this post now and then again :)
Here are a few more impressions from Zermatt in autumn, becaus it is just too beautiful up there during this season (and way more quieter).
